drums on the hummingbird highway
April 05, 2020The Hummingbird Highway is, perhaps, the most iconic and beautiful road in all of Belize. The Highway is the major artery that connects Belmopan in Central Belize to Dangriga on the southeast coast. Thus, it is the main thoroughfare for reaching Stann Creek and Toledo Districts in the southern part of the country. This road is the only significant road fully paved to cross over the mountains. On February 10th, 2020, we started in the north. Belize is such a tiny country that we only drove a couple of hours a day.
“You are Mr. Owl. I am Ms. Hummingbird. We may be came from different species but as long as you’re a bird, I’m a bird too.”
―
On the Hummingbird Highway
One of the first stops for dinner and a good night’s sleep was at Cheers restaurant and cabanas near Belmopan. This little spot next to the highway is run by a Canadian mother and daughter who are so welcoming and let us stay for free in there parking lot if we have dinner. As we enjoyed dinner, a couple of travellers from the USA joined us, and we had an excellent time visiting and eating.
As it came to an end, one of the ladies paid our bill even though we tried to stop her, but she loved our idea of how we travelled and wanted to treat us. As I said before, people are good. Thank you again, and happy travel to both of you.


Drums and more drums
Life is about rhythm. We vibrate, our hearts are pumping blood, we are a rhythm machine, that’s what we are.
Throughout of Hopkins Village are live drumming concerts you can immerse yourself in a cultural experience second to none in Belize. We watched, listen and participated in dance as we caught local Garifuna people making music and sharing the culture of their ancestors.
These young boys and men are talented musicians who deliver the true essence of the Garifuna culture through their music and dance.
Noted drum maker Austin Rodriguez makes many drums at the nearby town of Dangriga from mahogany or mayflower wood with deerskin hides. They are tuned by ropes on the sides and placed in the sun. The Primero drum is also called the male drum birthed from inside the larger female, carved from the same log. The Primero drummer and lead singer, or Gayusa, directs the musical changes, shows the highest virtuosity and calls the songs for the others’ response. The drums played by hand, and the trick is to be able to play fast while keeping the tone strong.
Other instruments include the shakas (or shakers), which contain seeds from a fruit tree inside a calabash gourd, and the turtle shells are precisely that strapped around the player’s neck.
Some of the basic Garifuna rhythms such as the Punta, Paranda, Chumba can be heard all through town. The town of Hopkins is full of rhythm and Garifuna culture.

Lupa Laruga in Hopkins one night of beach and music

children practising marching at the local police station accompanied by drummers
Hopkins
“Because there’s nothing more beautiful than the way the ocean refuses to stop kissing the shoreline, no matter how many times it’s sent away.” – Sarah Kay
a relaxing day in town
a relaxing time at the beach
Glad to hear all is well and that you are dodging the Covid bullets. Are you just going to motor on?
A cool spring in the Kootenays with varying levels of social distancing and Covid anxiety expressed by the local population. Stay safe guys and really enjoyed your short video, cheers Roger Mitchell
Hallo Franzi und Cliff, es ist toll, dass ihr diese Reise gemacht habt und Papi und ich sind aber auch froh, dass Ihr wieder zu Hause seid. Wir hoffen, dass Eure ganze Familie gesund ist. Es wäre auch schön wenn Du mir auf E-Mail etwas über Kanada und Euer Leben schreiben könntest. Meine Adresse kiesiuschi@bluewin.ch. Wir senden Euch allen die besten Grüsse aus der Schweiz Mami und Papi